MILAN, Dec. 17 (Class Editori) - Milano Finanza Fashion (MFF) has started an investigation among insiders, in order to find out the names of the most loved Chinese designers at home and abroad where they are becoming famous.
This event has been in the spotlight since a week ago, with the launch of Exor – financial arm of the Agnelli family – which will support Shang Xia in its next development phase together with Hermès. But there is not only the interest by great investors. The State of Fashion 2021 report by McKinsey discloses that people's wages are getting higher and Chinese producers can now focus on domestic demand.
And a new demanding, digitalized consumer is standing out: he is going hand in hand with a cool generation of brands, some already successful, some emerging. Chinese sales in the second quarter of 2020 have already come back to 2019 levels and they are expected to grow between 10-30 percent in 2021. In a broader scenario, fashion segment will fully recover in the third quarter of 2022, always with China ranking first in terms of sales, increasing from 5 percent to 10 percent in 2021 compared to 2019.
"Chinese consumers have a strong influence on brands. At the same time, beauty, wearability and collections' colors have been adjusted to their tastes. The pandemic is accelerating this process: if they were used to do shopping in Milan before, now they buy in local boutiques since they cannot travel anymore", as Emanuele Pedrotti, partner of McKinsey & company, responsible of the Apparel, fashion & luxury practice for the Mediterranean area, has explained to MFF. "Therefore, also the purchasing experience – which used to be influenced by Western locations – is now nationalized". This means that the luxury field will start to look at Eastern countries, and also design will do the same. And worldwide fashion is getting ready to embrace this new generation of Chinese designers that MFF has found out.
Uma Wang, the pioneer. Since the launch of her namesake brand in 2005, Uma Wang has been presenting her collections on the catwalks during the Paris, London and Milan Fashion Week, also participating every time to the Shanghai Fashion week. The brand's global orders grow by 30-50 percent every year. Produced in Italy, Wang is present also in several boutiques in London, Milan and New York, together with about 100 stores all over the world.
Annakiki by Anna Yang, between future and tradition. Since 2017, the independent label designed by Anna Yang has started to participate to the Milan fashion week. The label, which supports multiculturalism and links tradition with a futurist vision, now owns headquarters and press offices in Milan, Los Angeles and Shenzhen. The distribution is particularly focused on the Chinese territory, or at an international level through e-commerce.
Angel Chen, icon of the Chinese new wave. Distributed through 40 retailers at an international level, such as Lane Crawford, Selfridges, Luisaviaroma, 10 corso Como and Dong Liang, Angel Chen is part of a new wave of Chinese young designers thanks to her label. Chen took part in the Milan Fashion Week thanks to the International designer exchange program 2017, walking down the catwalk also in London and New York. The stylist has worked with famous celebrities such as Taylor Swift, Bella Hadid and Chris Lee.
Feng Chen Wang, the leader of emerging designers. Based in London, Feng Chen Wang is a menswear brand founded by the namesake stylist. She had her debut at the New York Fashion week for S/S 2016 collection. She was nominated to the LVMH prize, by participating to the LFWM-London fashion week Men's three years later. She has collaborated with brands such as Levi’s and Converse. Available in China, Japan, South Korea and Taiwan, but also at 10 corso Como, Harvey Nichols, Lane Crawford and many others.
Yang Li, viral fashion. London-based, is the Creative director of the namesake brand Yang Li, established in 2010. After an education reached together with Gareth Pugh and Raf Simons, he made his debut with the F/W Woman Collection 2013 in Paris and with menswear three years later. In 2018, he launched his new revolutionary automatic show, where models were celebrities such as Asia Argento, Ali Michael, Ruby Aldridge, Rossy de Palma and Irina Shnitman, who have given life to a viral and instant runway show from different cities thanks to a post on Instagram.
Susan Fang, design and green production. She launched her brand in 2017, by focusing on fabrics innovation, design and sustainable production. Fang has been selected for Forbes Under 30 in 2019 and 2020, as well as for the LVMH prize. Among the distributors, there are Browns, Farfetch, Net-a-porter, Selfridges and Dover street market London.
ShuShu/Tong by Liushu Lei and Yutong Jiang, loved by the Z Generation. ShuShu/Tong, Shanghai-based, was created by Liushu Lei and Yutong Jiang in 2015. At the heart of their own research, the GenZ duo has put the female style and a provocative beauty. The items of clothing have conquered Lane Crawford since their first season, whereas the stocklist is increasing worldwide, from Dover street market, Opening ceremony to 10 Corso Como.
Samuel Guì Yang, holistic approach. Samuel Yang launched the Samuel Guì Yang design studio in London and Shanghai in 2015. His creative vision, which has been established from the collaboration with the Swedish Erik Litzén, is based on a holistic and sustainable approach with a mix of Chinese and western historical and contemporary references.
Sankuanz by Shangguan Zhe, between art and street. Shangguan Zhe launched the Sankuanz menswear brand in 2008, by presenting his first collection in 2013 at an international level. The stylist, deeply influenced by pop culture, combines contemporary art scraps to sport, vintage and camouflage clothing, by reinterpreting menswear with a rebel voice. Among the markets in which he is active, there are North America, France, Germany, China and Japan.
Pronounce, Yushan Li and Jun Zhou, co-lab with Diesel. Pronounce was established by Yushan Li and Jun Zhou in 2016. The modern and sophisticated menswear label links East and West. The duo, headquartered in Milan and Shanghai, present their menswear collections at the LFW-London Fashion week of the S/S 2018. Among their recent collaborations there is Diesel, brand of the OTB group by Renzo Rosso, from which a collection of 18 denim and ready-to-wear items of clothing has been launched, premiered in January 2020. Pronounce is also the first Chinese brand to be invited to walk the catwalk at Pitti immagine uomo in Florence.
Rico Manchit Au, minimalist. He launched the Ricostru brand in 2011, with a mix of minimal and futuristic style. After having participated to some important international meetings such as the On stage project promoted by Milano unica and The Woolmark company in 2015, the brand has presented its collection in Beijing for different seasons and, for three years, it has been walking down the catwalk during the Milan Fashion Week by portraying one of the most innovative and interesting emerging names of the new contemporary generation of Chinese stylists.
Liu Wei, Liu Yang and Guo Pei, on top for Xinhua News Agency/CEIS. "Liu Wei and Liu Yang have been awarded with the most important China fashion award, whereas Guo Pei has a great influence at an international level". Liu Wei combines traditional culture with technology, whereas Liu Yang founded the Guangdong Liu Yang artistic creation in 1996, by winning different prizes in his career among which the China fashion designers Golden award. Guo Pei instead, created her label together with the atelier in 1997. 2015 represented an important turning point, when Rihanna chose to wear one of her clothes at the Met Gala, by launching the exhibition at the museum China: Through the looking glass. A year later, she made her debut during the haute couture week in Paris.
(Source:Class Editori)
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