Abstract: At VicenzaOro, which runs until September 11th, small manufacturers and creatives that are worth 80% of the market confront each other on how to grow in the largest jewelery market in the world, on par with India. E-commerce and multichannel approach are now indispensable, but it is the attention to design and creativity that make the difference, as demonstrated by the case of Cammilli.
MILAN, Sep 9 (Class Editori) - In China, the first market in the world for jewelery on par with India, where jewelry chains such as the giant Chow Tai Fook and the yellow windows for the 25 carat gold for sale dominate, new opportunities are opening up for Italian brands and manufacturers.
“There is a change of pace of a political nature, given the halved tariffs for the sector and, at the same time, a cultural opening towards Italian jewels,” explained Marco Carniello, Director of Jewelery and Fashion Division of Ieg, the trade fair listed on Piazza Affari which includes the Vicenza and Rimini structures.
“It happens that the Chinese customers who have always bought and given only gold as an investment form now also look at jewelry with an approach which is very similar to the Italian one,” added the manager. “Diamonds, rubies and sapphires have gone from being considered inappropriate to the object of desire together with stones traditionally belonging to European culture.”
World jewelry in search of new formats and markets can be found at VicenzaOro, in a market scenario that offers global brands such as Bulgari, Tiffany or Pomellato and, on the other, mass market signs from the US to China, and in this context the Italian way in goldsmithing, a recognized meeting point between trade and creativity, questions how to grow on the two major world markets.
“China, with Hong Kong as the gateway, is the market that has missed the pure retail approach thanks to online. For this reason we work with Ice to guarantee new spaces on sites like TMall or on vertical industry platforms like Vetiver,” said Carniello.
“The traditional partnership model has been neglected. As the street distributors of jewels are often producers, multi-brands are taking root, with an approach very close to Western culture, such as One Jewelery. A multichannel approach is necessary.” The reach of the high range online is progressing, as demonstrated by the acquisition, announced last week, of the Kaola valuable goods platform by Alibaba for 2 billion dollars (about 1.8 billion euros).
Excellent examples of Italians who have traced their own Silk Road include the Florentine Annamaria Camilli, who arrived in Suzhou, the Venice of China, two years ago. According to the director of the Ieg Jewelery division, “retail is the biggest challenge along with brand storytelling and creativity.”
Founded in 1983 in Bagno a Ripoli (Florence) by the designer Annamaria Cammilli and directed by her son Renato Renai, the company is today an international reference point in the panorama of jewelry design offering products in gold and stones rigorously worked in Italy, which stand out for characteristics of excellence in quality and in style.
Ceo of the company since 2002, Renai has pursued a policy of quality and internalization to promote the brand in the world with the watchword “a Cammilli jewel must always be recognizable without even checking on its label.” Renai has launched a path of innovation that will lead Cammilli to be recognized as a real style of jewelry.
The finish of the Shine and Matt gold surfaces and the specialization in offering original colors with special alloys have made the brand one of the leaders of Made in Italy in jewelry.
The Cammilli phenomenon indicates that design, in particular, is the lifesaver of many jewelers. “Several brands have gone back to producing their own creations in the laboratory as the brands prefer to sell in single-brand stores,” explained Carniello, “Meanwhile the jewels are gaining new windows. Seeing Lady Gaga wearing a Tiffany diamond around her neck at the Oscars ceremony is undoubtedly a great driver, on par with the brands that have their own high jewelery lines.”
VicenzaOro will also celebrate the partnership with the World Jewelery Confederation (Cibjo) and the Spreading Sustainability trend as well: technological solutions for the traceability and sustainability of jewelery will be at the center of the debate, with a focus on machinery, also protagonists at T. Evolution, which hosts the design, production and sales companies of small machinery and tools for the goldsmith sector. (All rights reserved)
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